A chip fill is $60–$130 and takes roughly half an hour at 23 Parkway Circle. The replacement it heads off is $250–$450. A fill also keeps the factory bond that was laid when the car was built, and that bond is a one-time thing: cut it and it is gone for good. Damage under the width of a quarter, sitting clear of where you actually look through the glass, is repairable. Call 215-608-1108 and get it done before the next cold snap runs it across.
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A chip is not a hole. It is a small cone of pulverized glass with air sealed into the legs around it, and the air has to come out before anything else can go in. The tool clamps and seals over the break, draws that trapped air out under vacuum, then pushes thin acrylic resin into the space it leaves. Ultraviolet light cures the resin hard, and the surface is razored level and polished so the wiper sweeps over it cleanly. What you buy is strength: the break stops behaving as a stress riser and stops traveling. What you do not buy is a windshield that looks untouched. The crushed glass at the point of impact is still crushed glass, so a faint mark stays behind, and anybody promising it will disappear completely is selling something that does not exist.
Cold is what turns a $60–$130 job into a $250–$450 one. Laminated glass is two sheets with a plastic interlayer between them, and on a twenty-degree morning you sit there with the defroster beating on the inner face while the outer face is still contracting. That difference pulls across the break, and a chip is exactly the flaw a crack wants to start from. It is why a star no bigger than a pea in December is a line running past the mirror by mid-January, with one seam on Route 40 doing the honors. So here is where the line falls. A break up to about the width of a quarter fills. A crack fills to roughly six inches, provided no leg has yet run out to the edge — once one has, there is no sound panel left to fill. And we will not touch damage sitting where the driver actually looks: the finished mark distorts slightly, a poor trade for saving money. You get that verdict on the spot, before anything is agreed.
“10/10 will recommend. A+ service and professionalism. My car was vandalize by a man on drugs. He destroyed my windshield, broke my wiper arm and ripped off my door handle. Very unfortunate for me because my insurance didn't cover because the total damages was under the price of my deductible. So I had to come out of pocket. Glory and praises to God Almighty who supply all. I mean I was upset but God gave me the peace and a heart to pray for the individual that damaged my car. But baby, Pro Bond pulled up on time and got right to work. Vacuum up all the glass and told me once I get the wiper arm to give them a call and they will install. I am so appreciative of great business. The icing on the cake was the quoted price of repair was cheaper then 4 other companies that I called. I called Monday they came out to repair on Tuesday and that was only because it rained Monday. I will recommend to all my family and friends”
Put a strip of clear tape over the break and leave the washer jets alone until you get here. Dirt and fluid worked down into the legs are the main reason a fill comes out cloudy.
Around here the chips come off trucks. Route 13 and Route 40 carry a steady load of dump, gravel and delivery traffic in and out of the port and the warehouse lots near the airport, and on Route 1 you share the lane with everything running south. Grit sits in the treads ahead of you and comes off at 55. That means most of what we fill is highway damage, and it also means most of it arrives fresh, which is exactly when a fill works best. Sit on it through one freeze and a $60–$130 repair becomes a $250–$450 panel plus the drive-away wait, and you lose the factory bond in the bargain — the one bead of adhesive on your car that was laid in a plant under conditions no shop, this one included, can reproduce.
Hold a quarter beside the damage and take the picture. Scale is the one thing that separates a fill from a replacement, and it saves you the trip if the answer turns out to be the second one. Or call 215-608-1108 and drive over.
The break is cleaned and dried, the injector is sealed onto the glass, and a vacuum lifts the trapped air out of the legs. Resin only goes in once that space is empty, and ultraviolet light then sets it hard.
Cured resin standing proud of the surface is shaved off and the spot polished so a wiper blade rides straight over it. Nothing is bonding underneath, so you leave the moment it is finished.
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Updated September 2026 · Pro-Bond Auto Glass, New Castle, DE
$60–$130. What moves it inside that range is the number of separate impacts and how far their legs have already traveled. One clean star or bullseye is a bottom-of-the-range job. Photograph it next to a coin, or call 215-608-1108, and the price is settled before you make the trip.
Half an hour for one chip, and you drive off the moment it is done. Nothing is holding glass to the car, so there is no release time to sit out the way there is on a replacement. Additional breaks on the same windshield add a few minutes apiece rather than another full visit.
No. Resin takes the place of the air in the separated legs, and most of the silver or dark look leaves with it, but pulverized glass at the center of an impact cannot be reassembled, so a small mark stays. What you are buying is a windshield that has stopped cracking, with a cosmetic improvement thrown in.
In summer you may get away with weeks. From late November through February, think in days. The cycle that kills a chip is a cold night followed by a defroster on full, and every one of those adds stress across the break. If the star is small and outside your sight line today, that is the cheap version of this problem, and it is worth spending half an hour on now.
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